I have a confession to make; I sinned at The Saint, the Lower Gaston restaurant that opened last year in the space formerly occupied by Two Sisters Catering.
It wasn’t easy to hold back on some of the rich menu items there, so I didn’t, and neither should you.
Delivered by Las Vegas-based Hooper Hospitality Concepts, The Saint is the company’s first foray into Dallas. It brought the dramatic visuals and fine cuisine found in Vegas but left the superfluous razzle dazzle of Sin City behind.
Chef Jacob Williamson, a long-time disciple of Wolfgang Puck, for whom he worked more than a decade, developed the menu which is undersold as “Italian Steakhouse.” Chef Williamson’s menu has plenty of beef and pasta, but the dishes are sophisticated yet approachable and very honest. They are creative and exquisitely prepared.
Dishes for the table include a few especially photogenic items, such as the Parker House rolls with Wagyu Tallow Candle and the Texas Wagyu Tartare, but each one is worthy of unconditional love. You could order every one of them and have a heavenly meal for the entire table. I submitted to temptation with the Whipped Ricotta with honey and bread and the chips and dip but lightened it up with a brilliant Tuna Crudo.
Several dining critics have celebrated the Brisket and Foie Gras Ravioli and for good reason. It’s rich with a mildly sweet dried cherry sauce. The ravioli is one of four pastas that are made in-house and are fresh takes on classic dishes. Diners have the option to get a smaller portion, Saint, or a larger serving, Sinner. I sinned with a few of those pastas.
Texas Wagyu is well represented on the menu in several fashions, including the Dry-Aged Wagyu NY Strip which diners order by the ounce. It was so juicy, tender and flavorful it didn’t need any of the butters offered as extras, but the gorgonzola butter was a worthy transgression, as was the house-made steak sauce.
There are non-beef options as well, including a Confit Duck Leg Piccata that my husband devoured, and a lovely Texas redfish. I’ll return for the pork Osso Bucco before spring.
The Saint offers typical steakhouse side dishes: vegetables and potatoes prepared various ways and a divine mac and cheese. I only tasted the mushrooms, and they were excellent.
As if there aren’t enough ways to get in trouble at The Saint, dessert was too great a temptation to pass up, especially when I learned that the cheesecake comes from the local bakery, J. Rae’s. Turns out, J.Rae’s Dallas’ chef owner, Audrey Dixon, is Chef Williamson’s wife. Holy matrimony! It was outstanding.
I don’t want to create problems in the Dixon/Williamson household, so I won’t say whose food I liked better. Let’s just say that it’s more likely for me to pop into J.Rae’s for a cupcake than it is to pop in to The Saint for a 40 ounce Wagyu Tomahawk Chop. Totally kidding, they are a super talented couple and I want to let them know that I’m a fun dinner party guest, hint hint.
All in all, I think The Saint has one of the best menus in Dallas right now. It offers a lot of variety without losing focus, being gimmicky, or trying to be everything to everyone. The vibe is moody, with dark walls and soft lights throughout.
The Saint is celebrating Saint Valentine’s Day with a special menu. No word yet if it will also offer a St. Patrick’s Day menu or an All Saints Day dinner, but don’t wait until then to go, anyway. And when you do, let me know how you like it.
2633 Gaston Ave.
Dallas, TX 75226
All photos except when noted are courtesy of The Saint.